Being able to lead a donkey is, of course, simply one of the essential things that both you and your donkey need to learn. But, having said this, even a well trained donkey may decide he or she is simply not up to the task!
There are various reasons from what the donkeys tell me, such as: "I don't feel like going anywhere just now;" It's too close to when you might feed me;" "I'm feeling particularly attached to my herd;" "You want me to walk UP hill?" "Okay I'll come but we're going to eat grass, right?" ... just to name a few.
This evening I headed out with Heather and she inspired me to write this post. She was keen to go ... at least for the first few yards, then she stopped and it was stop and go to the end of the driveway and then stop and go partway down the road until finally, (phew!) she decided she was up for it! Had I not cajoled her at the start, we wouldn't have gone at all. If I didn't have some clicker training skills in my toolbox, I might have gotten impatient and frustrated with her, which wouldn't have helped either one of us.
So here's what I do. After putting on a halter and lead rope, I invite my donkey to "walk on." I do this by facing forward, standing at the donkey's shoulder and extending my left hand forward which is my cue for "walk on." Invite is a key word here, as this is a partnership and I ask instead of tell.
IF my donkey doesn't step forward, I take my left hand, gently slide that hand down the lead rope towards the snap and apply firm but still gentle, steady pressure. Make sure, you aren't pulling the donkey's head sideways towards you but just forward and I keep the lead rope fairly short. Now I just wait her out.
I don't escalate pressure by pulling harder or raising my voice. I do have one donkey who is trained to drive and she is used to responding to a small tap on her rump - but the others don't have driving experience so I don't do this with them.
Pressure creates a desire for change and as soon as I feel the slightest movement forward - a lean or shift in weight, I immediately release all pressure on the lead rope. This is so important that I have underlined the key bits! It's also important that you don't release the pressure before that weight shift - i.e. don't pull and release, pull and release if the donkey hasn't shown the slightest inclination to move!
If you practice clicker training as I do, click and reinforce the forward movement immediately but if you don't work this way, then the release of pressure also acts as a reinforcement or reward. Timing is critical - you really must release that pressure on the lead rope immediately as the donkey moves - and if you are consistent and your timing is good, very soon she'll understand.
My goal is to walk at a brisk pace at the donkey's shoulder (you don't want to creep forward and block her vision,) which by the way is peripheral. Sometimes, I find that my donkey is happier following me and this is especially useful on a narrow trail or for some reason the donkey needs the security or confidence of being in the rear, so I'll take either position. I have one donkey though that will yank me over to the grass if she is behind me - "aha!" she thinks, "my leader can't see me, I think we'll go this way!"
I want to walk with a loose lead, the snap hanging straight down and the belly of the rope forming a "U" shape between me and the donkey. And I want my donkey's neck and head to be soft and either facing forward or slightly towards me but not to the right. If you lose control of a donkey's head because she is pulling to the right, she can get away from you or you end up in a tug of war. I just HATE pulling and yanking on my donkey's head so I train for the correct head position using clicker training to reinforce baby steps towards what I am looking for. I also reinforce for ears forward - even one ear! By doing this, I am reinforcing attitude as well as behaviour.
Last night after Heather decided a walk was a good thing, we had a great time! I took her down to the beach and she plowed right through the deep beach stones to the water's edge. We jogged a bit along the road too and investigated some new things to touch. All in all a lovely evening stroll for both of us!
Oh and it's good to practice leading from both sides of the donkey too!
I have formed a bond with a new rescue hinny named (aptly) Buck. Buck is 6 yrs old and has never been handled, he came to the rescue with very little background info as well, so no clue what trauma if any, he may have. I am trying to teach him to lead and have also been using friendly game and porcupine game.I am very green my self when it comes to working with equines. He has been responding pretty well to friendly game and the use of the stick, BUT we have started working on his into pressure thing and the more the pressure increases, the more he moves into it and starts getting to be what I call a “space invader” sometimes he is crowding me so much I leave his stall and let him calm down before going back in and trying again. He will also bite (little pinchy bites, not full on, thank goodness!) and when agitated he kicks with both front and back feet and rears. I am trying to come up with ways to back him off when he starts getting pushy, but everything I have tried seems to encourage him to push harder. I leave his stall and go away for few minutes when he gets worked up, and when I come back, he does better, but it never lasts. Do you have any suggestions that may help with any of this? I love your article and will definitely try the things you are suggesting. I just want to help this little (adorable) guy prepare for adoption, which he already has lined up! Thank you ahead of time for any guidance you can offer.
ReplyDeleteHi, thanks for getting in touch! There's so much to say about this - first of all, does he have a companion? Donkeys and mules (and horses!) should never be confined to a stall and should never be left alone - they need company. Six months is very young to be separated for Mom too so possible issues there. Idon't know what "friendly game and porcupine game are ... but I do know that donkeys don't respond well to pressure. They are so smart and it's better to motivate them to move than to try to coerce them. It's so wonderful that you are committed to helping him learn! Can you email me? mixedmedia@cynthiaminden.com
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